TL;DR
For sensitive skin, protect the barrier first: SPF 50+, niacinamide, and low-strength azelaic acid. Skip harsh scrubs and high-strength retinoids that trigger the inflammation causing PIH.
- Anchor
- Barrier repair + SPF 50+
- Gentle active
- Azelaic acid 10%, Niacinamide
- Avoid
- Scrubs, high-strength retinoids
- Rule
- No sting = no new pigment
The direct answer
Sensitive skin is prone to PIH precisely because it reacts easily to irritation. The goal is to fade marks while keeping the skin calm — gentle actives, never aggressive exfoliation.
Gentle routine
- Cleanse with a mild, non-foaming cleanser.
- AM: niacinamide + moisturiser + SPF 50+.
- PM: azelaic acid 10% on marks, then a ceramide moisturiser.
- Patch-test every new product for 24 hours.
What makes it worse
Physical scrubs, alcohol-heavy toners, and high-strength retinoids commonly inflame sensitive skin and deepen pigment. Less, done consistently, is the safer path.
FAQ
Can sensitive skin use vitamin C?
Yes, but choose a gentle form (MAP or sodium ascorbyl phosphate) at 10–15% and stop if stinging persists.
Is azelaic acid safe for sensitive skin?
Azelaic acid 10% is generally well tolerated and anti-inflammatory, making it a good pigment active for reactive skin.
How do I know if a product is too harsh?
Stinging, redness, or tightness within minutes means pause it. Repair the barrier with moisturiser before retrying at lower frequency.