TL;DR
AM: cleanser, vitamin C, niacinamide, moisturiser, SPF 50+. PM: cleanser, tranexamic acid or azelaic acid, moisturiser. Keep it consistent and non-irritating.
- AM core
- Antioxidant + SPF 50+
- PM core
- Tranexamic / Azelaic acid
- Golden rule
- No irritation = no new pigment
- Patience
- Minimum 12 weeks to judge
The direct answer
A working routine does not need ten steps. Protect by day (antioxidant + SPF) and treat by night (a pigment inhibitor), while keeping the barrier calm so inflammation never restarts the pigment cycle.
The routine
- AM: gentle cleanser → vitamin C → niacinamide → light moisturiser → SPF 50+.
- PM: cleanser → tranexamic acid or azelaic acid 10–20% → moisturiser.
- 2–3×/week: add a low-strength retinoid at night if skin tolerates it.
- Skip actives on any day skin feels tight or stinging.
Why "less" often works better
Layering too many acids triggers inflammation, which is itself a cause of PIH. A short, steady routine outperforms an aggressive one in humid MY & ID climates.
FAQ
Can I use multiple acids at once?
Start with one pigment active (tranexamic or azelaic). Add a second only after 2–3 weeks with no irritation.
Do I need a separate brightening product?
Niacinamide and tranexamic acid cover brightening. A dedicated vitamin C in the AM adds antioxidant protection that also helps fade marks.
What if my skin stings?
Stop actives for a few days, repair the barrier with moisturiser, then reintroduce one product at a time at lower frequency.